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Gift Boxes

We survived the Valentine's Day, our favorite day of the year - it was exciting and full of adrenaline and now are ready to work on a new collection. 

Meanwhile we are very proud that gift boxes were very well received by our clients. We will definitely come up to more of these. If you have any suggestions or recommendations, please let us know. We are always very glad to hear from you!

Spring is coming with more surprises - stay tuned !

 

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JADE PLANT

Crassula ovata

This low maintenance, long-lasting succulent looks like a tiny tree and is said to bring good fortune. It can produce flowers in winter.

HOW NOT TO KILL IT

Location –  position the plant on a sunny windowsill that is 50-75F (18-24C). It will tolerate periods at 50F (10C) in winter.

Light – Provide bright, dappled sunlight.

Watering + feeding -  Water moderately; let the top 1in (2-3cm) of potting mix dry out between waterings.  Water more sparingly in winter. Feed once in spring and then again in summer.

Care – Pull off any old, shriveled leaves. In spring, lightly prune the plant to shape. Plant in a weighty pot as it can become top-heavy and topple over.

YELLOWING LEAVES?
This is probably due to overwatering.

SAVE IT – Allow the potting mix to dry out and check that the pot is well drained.

DROPPING LEAVES?
Older leaves will shrivel and fall off naturally, but younger leaves may drop under environmental stress (such as being moved to bright sunlight suddenly, or over- or underwatering).

SAVE IT – Give water if the potting mix is very dry, or allow it to dry out of soggy. When repositioning, move your plant gradually toward the desired spot over a week, to allow it to acclimate.

SHRIVELED LEAVES AND STEMS?
Your plant is short of water.

SAVE IT – Give your plant a small amount of water daily over the course of a few days – the leaves should soon plump up again. Don’t let t stand in soggy potting mix.

LEGGY PLANT?
Your plant needs more sunlight

SAVE IT – Move it to a sunnier spot

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CLIVIA

Clivia miniate

Clivias are native to South Africa and produce a beautiful, single, red, orange, or yellow flower in early spring.

HOW NOT TO KILL IT

Location – From spring to late fall, keep the plant in a heated room. In winter, move it to a room that is 50F (10C) for 3 months to rest – this will help initiate a flower bud. Then return it to its spring-to-fall position.

Light – Provide bright, but indirect light.

Watering + Feeding – From spring to late fall, keep the potting mix moist. Reduce watering in winter so that the mix is almost dry. Feed once a month from spring to fall, and not at all during winter.

Care – Wipe the leaves occasionally. Don’t move the pot when the plant is flowering or in a bud. After flowering, cut off the dead flower spike at the base. The plant may produce a second flower in late summer. Clivias like to be snug, so repot the plant after flowering only if the roots are bursting out of the pot.

BLEACHED OR BROWN ON THE LEAVES?
The leaves are sunburned.

BROWN LEAVES AT THE BASE OF YOUR PLANT?
This happens when the older leaves are dying back.

SAVE IT
This is normal. Just gently pull away any brown leaves.

YELLOW LEAVES?
This could be due to underfeeding, or under- or overwatering.

SAVE IT
Make sure you are using the correct watering and feeding regimen for the season

SHORT FLOWER SPIKE? NO FLOWER IN SPRING?
This is most likely due to a lack of rest in winter, but it could be because the pot is too large, or because your plant was underwatered after being rested.

SAVE IT
It has been rested, make sure you keep the potting mix moist. Check that the pot is not too big – the root ball should only be 1in (2-3cm) away from the edge of the pot.

 

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MUM

Chrysanthemum

Blooms come in many colors and last for several weeks. Chose plants with both open flowers and opening buds.

HOW NOT TO KILL IT

Location – Keep the plant at 50-60F (10-15C), as the flowers will last longer. A windowsill in a cool room is ideal.

Light – Provide bright, indirect light; keep it out of direct sun.

Watering + Feeding – A mum likes water, so keep the potting mix moist (but not soggy) at all times. You could feed the plant after a few weeks. It won't flower for long enough to need feeding a second time.

Care – Deadhead any spent flowers. Plants are often discarded after flowering, but you could try planting yours in your garden. It will have been treated with dwarfing hormones before it was sold, but should revert to its normal growth habit outdoors, and may flower in fall.

WILTING LEAVES?
The plant needs watering.

SAVE IT – Water your plant and ensure that you are keeping the potting mix moist, but not soggy

FLOWERS NOT LASTING?
Higher temperature will make the flowers open more rapidly and fade more quickly.

SAVE IT - Move it to a cooler spot that is 50-60F (10-15C)

FUZZY GRAU MOLD ON THE FOLIAGE?

This gray mold is called botrytis and may have been caused by your plant sitting in its cellophane wrapping for a long time.

SAVE IT – Remove any affected areas and treat with a fungicide.

BUDS WON'T OPEN?
The plant may not be getting enough light. If the buds are completely green, they may not open.

SAVE IT – Move your plant to a brighter spot.

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SPIDER PLANT

Chlorophytum comosum

Spider plants are ideal for beginners because they are very easy to care for. Display them in a hanging planter.

HOW NOT TO KILL IT

Location – Keep the plant in a room that is always 45 – 75F (7-24C)

Light – Place it in a bright spot, away from direct sunlight.

Watering + Feeding – Keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Water more sparingly in water. Feed every few weeks excepts during water.

Care – Repot young plants into a slightly bigger pot every spring. Repot mature plants when the white, fleshy roots begin to push the plant from its container, making it tricky to water. Mature spider plants produce “plantlets” or babies that can be cut off and grown individually. If they have tiny roots, plant them directly into the new potting mix. If they have no roots, place them in water for a few weeks until the roots appear.

BROWN TIPS ON THE LEAVES?
Your plant can tolerate the hot, dry air of centrally heated rooms, but this may make the leaf tips go brown. Underfeeding or underwatering can have the same effect.

SAVE IT – Cut off the brown TIPS AND MOVE YOUR PLANT TO A COOLER ROOM. Make sure you feed and water it regularly.

BROWN STREAKS ON THE LEAVES IN WINTER?
This means your plant has been watered too much in cool conditions.

SAVE IT – Remove any unsightly leaves. Make sure that you water your plant less during winter – the potting mix should be just moist.

YELLOW LEAVES?
The soil around the roots is too dry, which might mean your plant needs repotting. Alternatively, it may have root rot.

SAVE IT – Remove any unsightly leaves. Water well from spring to fall. Repot your plant if it is building from its pot. Check for root rot.

PALE LEAVES? Harsh sunlight, lack of water, or low sunlight and low temperatures in winter can all make the leaves turn pale.

SAVE IT – Move the plant out of direct sunlight, and water well. In winter, move your plant to a warmer, brighter room.

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